Reviews
An unlikely product!
[How is it used?
All OK for everyday use!
Was the one you received as per Image?
Beauty is better than Image, and the price is right!
Was the installation difficult?
Simply tighten the bolt!
How was your experience with it?
I was able to eliminate the fear that the cable might deteriorate due to the friction of the tire.
[Included Parts:were they on?
Bolt for tightening is included!
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
I don't have it in my possession, but I would like to have the instruction manual.
Other items that would be helpful
Installation points and hang/Availability and clarity of the Instruction Manual/Points to consider/Items to purchase/Opinions and requests to the Manufacturer
I have the impression that Freak's Pit has a variety of products, many of which I personally think look custom, and if there is a product that tugs at my heartstrings, I'm willing to give it a try.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
Neither good nor bad
After driving about 20,000 km in 3 years since replacing the external suspension, I felt that it was worn out, so I replaced the external suspension with an OEM Rear Suspension instead of overhauling it.
Motorcycle Rear Suspension
Rear Suspension (Rear shock) improves stability and maneuverability during riding by mainly absorbing the road surface gap. 。 To briefly introduce the structure, there is a Spring around a component called Damper, and the Damper absorbs (dampens) the impact received by the Spring, so that the Spring does not jump around forever.
[Merit of Motorcycle Rear Suspension
The impact of the impact when running can be reduced.
→ Better ride quality.
Damage to the vehicle body is also reduced. 。
In addition, suspension keeps the tire in place on the road surface by absorbing shock. 。
As a result, stable Grip can be ensured.
Of course, the Rear Suspension also has a standard life span, or replacement or overhaul.
The life of the Rear Suspension. For Motorcycle
The timings that should be considered for overhaul of the suspension are generally about 20,000km or about 2 years.
What kind of symptoms do you often hear about Rear Suspension going bad?
Downs Symptoms of Motorcycle
...Curve has become difficult to turn.
The height of the car seems to have been lowered.
... while running "Giggle." The noise is called "noise".
This may occur when symptoms such as the following appear. In such a case, it is Overhaul replacement regardless of the distance or the number of years.
I thought about replacing it because I felt the lack of convergence of the road surface Gap and the strange noise with my Case.
When it comes to replacement, I think we have two choices:external and OEM.
The characteristics of each are
Outside the Company Overhaul is possible. Expensive. Rides crisp and clear.
[OEM] The basic overhaul is not possible (but it may be cheaper to buy one). (It is hard because it is designed for tandem and loading. It is more suited for touring than for sports. Durability is higher than external ones.
I went back to OEM because the outside is Overspecifications. Durability and price were the deciding factors.
The length of normal suspension = 320mm.
Replacement is easy.
(1) Stand Center Stand.
↓
Remove one side at a time and replace one side at a time.
↓
(3) Apply Grease to the stop points of each of the Frame and Swing Arm.
after replacement
I think it's much better than the external one that was damaged.
OEM is not bad, if you use it in Touring Main.
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Fits: HONDA CROSS CUB50, HONDA CROSSCUB110, HONDA CT110 HUNTER CUB125, HONDA SUPER CUB 50, HONDA SUPER CUB110, HONDA SUPER CUB 50PRO, HONDA SUPER CUB110PRO, HONDA SUPER CUB C125, HONDA Dio 110, HONDA LEAD 125, HONDA PCX 125, HONDA PCX 160, HONDA PCX ELECTRIC, HONDA ADV 150, HONDA HORNET250, HONDA HORNET600, HONDA CB 125R, HONDA CB 250R, HONDA CBR 250RR, HONDA CBR 600RR
Easy to hang and wind resistant. Very good.
I use this Repeater on my CT110 HUNTER CUB and GB250 CLUBMAN. It is my favorite.
I bought it last year when I bought a CT110 HUNTER CUB, because I was planning to add a front carrier and a RODCarrier to it. I am sure it will be a good reference for those who are considering purchasing it.
The front carrier is made of DRC, the largest class, and is fixed at the most forward position, so the front of the handlebar is considerably longer than in NORMAL, The height of the LeftFront section of the Rear Carrier is 10cm higher than the Seat. The lower part of the front wheel and Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) As you can see in the photo, I can close the RearFastener to the very bottom, even with the bottom rope tightened quite a bit. I live in an area that is occasionally exposed to strong winds, and the Seat has never rolled up.
Also, I have been using it for over a year now and it has not deteriorated much. (There is a short period of time when the parking Space is in direct sunlight.) Not much dirt on it. (It has a roof, so it is virtually dry even in the rain.) and I have never washed the surface with water. I am very satisfied.
I bought it for GB250 CLUBMAN almost one year after CT110 HUNTER CUB. It is rather a little bit large, so the front wheel lower part and the quantity of the front wheel are a little bit smaller than the original size.:Pair (for Left and Right) The Adjuster rope at the bottom is fully squeezed. There is still room to spare, but not so much that it will flip up in the wind, so we are not worried at all.
Perhaps if it were exposed to rain and direct sunlight throughout the day, the evaluation of deterioration might change, but I cannot comment on that.
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Reaffirms that OEMs are easy to use.
There are many stylish Mirror products available outside the company, but I repurchased OEM Mirror because my original purpose is visibility.
It will be an OEMMirror of SR400.
What is Motorcycle Back Mirror? ]
... can check the back of the Motorcycle. Back Mirror is essential for safe driving. Security Parts is 。 And not only for safety, but also for the motorcycle, which has a maximum speed of 50 km/h or more, it is necessary to use the Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) Back Mirror is also a Parts that is subject to violation of the Road Traffic Law if it is not installed.
Is Mirror required for Motorcycle?
‥Back Mirror is indispensable to check the rearward while driving a motorcycle.
In today's traffic situation, it's too scary to ride without being able to see what's behind you, isn't it?
It is a very large security component.
And ... if you don't put Mirror on, it will be Large weird.
It may be a violation of the law and be punished with Gold.
And the Mirror itself seems to have its own standards, too.
Mirror safety standards
. The area of the mirror surface of the Motorcycle needs to be more than 69 square centimeter 。 If the Mirror is circular, the Size must be between 94mm and 150mm in diameter to comply with the safety standard.
And if you're going to pass an inspection for 250cc or larger, MotorcycleMirror is noted for its diameter and area.
Mirror mirror surface area, regardless of shape, must be at least 69?! 。 For example, 70mm×100mm is OK, but 70mm×90mm has an area of 63? and will not pass inspection! 。 For a square, 83mm×83mm is still not enough for 68.89?.
If you don't meet these requirements, your vehicle will not pass inspection, and hardly ever? If you are stopped by the police, your car will be subject to poor maintenance as a vehicle with unauthorized modifications. 。 He said that it would be policed as an illegal modification, Gold, a penalty of up to six months in prison or 300,000 yen. The following is a list of the penalties that may be imposed.
And strictly speaking ... Mirror is not just one ?.
The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism has announced Technical Standard for Rear-view Mirror Mounting Device for Motorcycles, etc. 3.2.1" in Attachment 83 of the Notice of the Safety Standards for Road Vehicles According to the "Motorcycles exceeding 50 km/h are Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) Both Sides must have 1 pc. each of the posterior mirrors."
and Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) Mirror is not good without it.
In fact, I used to ride Mirror with only one of them, and I used to ride Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) I was also surprised at how easy it was to see when I put it on (laughs).
I am aware that there are many excellent products, but I am not saying that outside the company = evil, [Visibility] Safety Standards 【vehicle inspection】 We decided to buy OEM again and put it on, considering such factors as the following.
【good point】
◎The visibility is better than the round Mirror I used before. I think the blind spots have been reduced.
◎Bracket is thick and strong, so it will not loosen due to vibration transmitted to the handlebar.
◎I personally like Plating because it is beautiful.
◎No need to worry about vehicle inspections. Because→OEMs are built on the assumption that the safety standards (lol)
[Bad point]
The style of the STD Handlebar is not suitable for a custom car with a large handlebar (lol).
Worried about rust since it is ▲Steel.
As for the shape of the Mirror, I think it is just a matter of preference or a self-responsibility factor, but I felt that the security standard should be chosen to ensure visibility, even though it is a Large cutoff.
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Fits: HONDA BENLY50, HONDA CB250R, HONDA CT110 HUNTER CUB, HONDA DAX, HONDA glom, HONDA XELVIS, HONDA Night Hawk, HONDA JADE, HONDA HORNET, HONDA GB250 CLUBMAN, HONDA DREAM, HONDA CL250, HONDA VT400S, HONDA R100 ROADSTER, HONDA GB400, HONDA CB400, HONDA CB400SF, HONDA BROS, YAMAHA RENAISSA, YAMAHA SR250
It's very cost effective.
It is OEMMirror-like enough to be satisfactory for the price.
Plating is clean, mirrors are not distorted, and there is no blurring while driving, so rearward vision is good.
The difference between OEM and Large is that the ROD is shorter (lower) and the black parts that look like shock absorbers are just materials.:It means that it is a Plastic Cover. Of course, there is no way to add a shock absorber at this price, so it makes sense.
Overall, I think this is a good product with high cost performance.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
You should pay attention to them from time to time.
Kick start, synonymous with SR400.
The Kick Arm that I have been using for many years still seems to work, but I feel fatigue (Gold fatigue), and if it breaks in the future, I will no longer be able to apply Engine, so I renewed it.
Kick start
‥To start Motorcycle and other Engines using Kick starter.
What is Motorcycle's Kick starter? ]
The electricity from the battery is used to rotate the Cell Motor, and the engine is started by the power of the Cell Motor. Cell start In contrast, the Rider's own kicking force is used to start the Engine. Kick start." is 。
The benefits of Kick start.
No burden on the battery.
Cell start motorcycles use electricity from the battery when starting, but kick start motorcycles do not require electricity when starting. Therefore, the battery is not burdened, and battery buildup can be suppressed. In addition, even if the battery does run up, the Kick start motorcycle can start the engine manually, which can be helpful in an emergency.
However, if the engine displacement volume is a CUB or something like that, there is also a demerit for Kick start.
[Demerit]
If the force to step down on the Kick pedal at the start is insufficient, not only does the Kick start fail, but the Kick pedal may jump up in the opposite direction with great force. The so-called Ketin." Ya Kickback." This phenomenon is called "ketchin". When kettling occurs, some Risks are hit hard on the shin or other parts of the body by the Kick pedal that has bounced up, causing them to faint in agony.
Ketching Prevention
There are two ways to prevent kettling:using Decompression or not using Decompression.
. How to use Decompression."
The KICK pedal is then lowered vigorously and the engine is applied.
. How to do it without Decompression.
After returning the Kick pedal completely to the top, step down the Kick pedal to the bottom again to start the engine. 。 This is the basic way to hang an Engine using Kick starter.
Kick pedal and Kick Arm.
There are some precautions to be taken when installing the product.
This is the relationship with the Pedal position.
If you are replacing the footpeg with an external footpeg, the Arm itself has less clearance, so there will be interference→at that time, please return to the OEM footpeg.
The OEM footpeg is too large and interferes with the exhaust system. →Kick Arm is OEM.
Replacement is not difficult, since all you have to do is remove the bolt attached to the base of the Kick Arm and replace it.
However, the place where the Arm fits is geared, so be sure to insert it properly aligned with the gears.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
Blinker's blinking malfunction is one of the first things to suspect.
I have been doing a lot of maintenance work, but I have not touched the electrical system much at all, so I decided to take this opportunity to do maintenance work.
Blinker stopped blinking and,
It vibrates a lot, and the bulb often goes out, and sometimes the battery is weak, but I suspected the blinker relay, since it had just been renewed.
What is Blinker relay?
Blinker relay is a component that operates the blinking of the direction indicator installed in cars and motorcycles. 。 Also known as a "flasher relay," it enables blinking at regular intervals by switching an electrical signal on and off.
Blinker relay seems to have different usage and characteristics between external and OEM.
Blinker relay outside the company
[OEMBlinker relay
The Blinker relay of the ManufacturerOEM is designed to match the power consumption of the OEM Halogen bulb, and when the Blinker Valve is turned off, it will detect the change in power consumption and will flash Polished and High flasher to inform the user. The Blinker relay is designed to match the power consumption of Halogen bulbs in OEMs.
→In my case, I don't intend to change to LED, and I prefer to keep Halogen, so I will replace the OEMBlinker relay as it is.
What are the symptoms of a bad Blinker relay? What is a Flasher relay (Blinker relay)? Blinker blinks at regular intervals." Parts. 。 When the flasher relay fails, The Blinker is still on. Blinker won't stick." Symptoms such as
And if you leave it as it is, it will break.
When it breaks.
The wire is disconnected and the Headlight and Blinker do not turn on when the Switch is turned on.
By the way, in my case.
Flashes normally when Idling 。
When the Engine is revved up, it sometimes flashes irregularly. 。
Flashes irregularly at higher RPMs than at constant RPMs. 。
→I'll replace it while it's still irregular...it would be troublesome if it gets disconnected...(laughs)
How to exchange
Remove ?Seat.
↓
The Blinker relay is a black square Matchbox-like component with a small Elastic band on the bottom of the Seat.
↓
(3) Coupler removes the old Blinker relay and simply inserts the new Blinker relay.
〜After replacement
Incorrect blinking has been resolved.
I was relieved that the wire was not disconnected (laughs).
In such cases, it may be a good idea to replace the Blinker relay first, because the parts cost is low and the work is simple and can be done on an individual Level.
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This is also useful for this.
The Center Stand was recently renewed, and at that time, the Side Stand was also replaced because it was quite damaged.
I thought that the Center Stand is useful for maintenance by myself and the Side Stand is a simple stopper, but......it seems not so. 。
What is Motorcycle's Side Stand?
The Side Stand is located under the body of the MotorcycleLeft Side. 。 The Center Stand allows you to park your motorcycle in an upright position.
You→re often in and out with the Left foot. 。
With the Center Stand, you have to get off the vehicle, grab the seat and handlebar, and stand up using the lever principle.
It's a self-serving Image,
Side Stand→ stability.
Center Stand→ firm and stable 。
The Image is a "Side Stand", but it seems that Side Stand has its own unique Merit.
Merit of Side Stand
◎If you use the Center Stand when strong winds are blowing in a typhoon, the Motorcycle will be pushed by the wind and the Tire will float, reducing the ground contact area and making it easier for the Motorcycle to fall over. 。 By using the Side Stand instead of the Center Stand, you can stabilize the vehicle body by supporting the front wheel, Side Stand, and rear wheel at three points. 。
◎Earthquake resistant (in my experience)
◎Putting the Side Stand in the upright position when two people are riding together will prevent the back passenger from losing balance and falling over when he/she puts his/her weight on the footpeg.
◎In Japan, cars and motorcycles are driven on the Left Side of the road, so it is easier to get in and out of them if they are parked on the shoulder of the road and the vehicle is leaning on the Left Side in Side Stand.
It is safer because you don't have to go out on the side of the roadway.
[Demerit]
Strength
Center Stand→ Large load-bearing area.
Side Stand→ Pinpoint the area that will receive the load.
Strength is concerned because the load to the load-bearing area is not dispersed but concentrated.
How to exchange
(1) Use Center Stand (or Jack if you don't have one) to keep the car body vertical.
↓
(2) Remove the old Side Stand (with Spring).
↓
(3) Remove and clean Spring.
↓
(4) Attach Spring to the new Side Stand.
↓
(5) Installation.
important point
*If your vehicle is not lowdown, you should not use Short Stand or something like that. It is not stable on the contrary because there is not much tilt.
*Check the Center Stand Sensor under the Engine to make sure it is working properly.
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TS125R.
PROs KillChamber is installed on TS125R.
The Torque valley becomes Large at Timing when the exhaust Valve is activated.
Replaced from OEMMain jet.
#150→#160 and #10 Large and Torque valley is now Mild.
It could have been a little larger.
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OEM is practical.
I have tried many different Grips, but I have never had an OEMGrip on me.
It had an external Grip on it when I bought it, and I didn't like it and changed it as soon as I could (laughs).
But recently, I've been thinking more about practicality and decided to try OEMGrip.
What is Motorcycle Grip?
Grip, the point of contact between rider and motorcycle 。
The amount of operational stress that can be eliminated is critical to maintain safety and to achieve the desired level of driving performance. 。
[Grip type
.......Grip has Penetrating." When Non-Penetrating." There are two types of 。 If you use Bar End, select Pierced Type; if not, select Non-Penetrating. (Note that removing the Bar End will increase the vibration of the Handlebar.)
→BTW, the OEM of SR400 is Non-Penetrating.
Closed End has a difference in thickness from Pierced Type that uses Bar End.
Closed End has thicker and thicker grips in many cases.
The advantage of thicker grips.
The thinner the grip, the easier it is to transmit vibration to the hand, but the thicker the grip, the harder it is to absorb and transmit vibration.
Therefore, it can be said that the thicker the better if the main goal is to reduce fatigue by not transmitting vibration.
→If SR400 has a lot of vibration, it is best to choose a thicker one.
However, it may be too thick and interfere with the control system, so you should choose one that fits each hand.
OEM→s for everyone, so it's not too thick, and it also reduces vibration in its own way.
Grip is also consumable.
...Motorcycle Handlebar Grip Over time, Rubber has lost weight. It's getting sticky." and Timing is due for replacement.
Since the grips are large parts that are held while driving, if the rubber is worn out, it is difficult to make a quick move, which can lead to danger.
I thought about replacing it because I felt that the grip was getting weaker. There is no hard-and-fast replacement time because the temperature and usage conditions vary, but when the rubber becomes thin and a little sticky when you grip it, it might be a good time to consider replacing it.
Replacement is easy.
(1) Spray the gap between the grip and handlebar with Parts cleaner.
↓
(2) Insert a slotted screwdriver from there.
↓
(3) While spraying Parts cleaner, insert the slotted screwdriver to the depth.
↓
(4) The adhesive can be peeled off by turning the Driver once.
↓
(5) Pull out.
↓
(6) Apply adhesive to the Handlebar or Throttle cone and press the new Grip into place.
〜After replacement
Easy to grip, especially the Clutch operation.
○ Fine Accelerator operation is possible.
Vibration seems to be suppressed there as well.
It may be no surprise that Grip also considered this when designing the product, so there can be no mistake.
It is not as glamorous as Other Brand Products, but if it works practically in the same price range, OEM seems to be a possibility.
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I've come this far without knowing the OEM...
I have tried many different Grips, but I have never had an OEMGrip on me.
It had an external Grip on it when I bought it, and I didn't like it and changed it as soon as I could (laughs).
But recently, I've been thinking more about practicality and decided to try OEMGrip.
What is Motorcycle Grip?
Grip, the point of contact between rider and motorcycle 。
The amount of operational stress that can be eliminated is critical to maintain safety and to achieve the desired level of driving performance. 。
[Grip type
.......Grip has Penetrating." When Non-Penetrating." There are two types of 。 If you use Bar End, select Pierced Type; if not, select Non-Penetrating. (Note that removing the Bar End will increase the vibration of the Handlebar.)
→BTW, the OEM of SR400 is Non-Penetrating.
Closed End has a difference in thickness from Pierced Type that uses Bar End.
Closed End has thicker and thicker grips in many cases.
The advantage of thicker grips.
The thinner the grip, the easier it is to transmit vibration to the hand, but the thicker the grip, the harder it is to absorb and transmit vibration.
Therefore, it can be said that the thicker the better if the main goal is to reduce fatigue by not transmitting vibration.
→If SR400 has a lot of vibration, it is best to choose a thicker one.
However, it may be too thick and interfere with the control system, so you should choose one that fits each hand.
OEM→s for everyone, so it's not too thick, and it also reduces vibration in its own way.
Grip is also consumable.
...Motorcycle Handlebar Grip Over time, Rubber has lost weight. It's getting sticky." and Timing is due for replacement.
Since the grips are large parts that are held while driving, if the rubber is worn out, it is difficult to make a quick move, which can lead to danger.
I thought about replacing it because I felt that the grip was getting weaker. There is no hard-and-fast replacement time because the temperature and usage conditions vary, but when the rubber becomes thin and a little sticky when you grip it, it might be a good time to consider replacing it.
Replacement is easy.
(1) Spray the gap between the grip and handlebar with Parts cleaner.
↓
(2) Insert a slotted screwdriver from there.
↓
(3) While spraying Parts cleaner, insert the slotted screwdriver to the depth.
↓
(4) The adhesive can be peeled off by turning the Driver once.
↓
(5) Pull out.
↓
(6) Apply adhesive to the Handlebar or Throttle cone and press the new Grip into place.
〜After replacement
Easy to grip, especially the Clutch operation.
○ Fine Accelerator operation is possible.
Vibration seems to be suppressed there as well.
It may be no surprise that Grip also considered this when designing the product, so there can be no mistake.
It is not as glamorous as Other Brand Products, but if it works practically in the same price range, OEM seems to be a possibility.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
If you think about it in the long term, we recommend replacement.
I was looking at ESTRELLA's Fuel Cock, and I was wondering about SR400 too.
I'm not seeing any glitches at this point, but I'm concerned that there may be some in the near future.
This one is also dirty near the Fuel Cock, I could see Gasoline seepage, so let's replace it!
I feel like I should just replace the internal Packing, but I decided to replace it still wanting to continue to ride.
Like ESTRELLA, SR is also a negative pressure carburetor.
Fuel Cock (Negative Pressure Cook)
...Cook is a Fuel Cock that uses air pressure.
The Motorcycle is divided into Parts called Fuel Tank (Fuel Tank) and Fuel Cock (Fuel Cock) that connects the Carburetor.
Cook's Place.
The parts called "Fuel Cock" are attached to the bottom of the fuel tank.
Applies to vehicles equipped with a Reserve Fuel Tank.
Mainly Carburetor cars.
How Fuel Cock works.
It is generated when the engine is running and the air mixture is inhaled. "Negative pressure" Gasoline flows through the open valve by
Simply put, if Engine is on.
→Gasoline flows.
When the Engine stops
The flow of →Gasoline stops.
[If the Fuel Cock malfunctions...
Fuel supply is not normal, causing Engine malfunction or fuel leakage.
→Idling unstable, frequent stalls, Gasoline smell.
...Gasoline leaks.
→ Flammability hazard.
Fuel Cock failure can occur over a long period of time due to deterioration. The following are some of the causes.
Cause
Rust in Fuel Tank, Gasoline mixed with rust passes through Cook →Damaged parts in Cook 。
Internal packing damage due to age-related deterioration.
*Packing is mainly Material:Deterioration occurs due to constant contact with Rubber and Gasoline.
I think this is also the case for SR400.
A simple explanation is that Cook = faucet.
You know how sometimes you find water leaking even though you've tightened it properly?
Material inside:It leaks because the RubberPacking has deteriorated and is no longer sealed.
Although the replacement is not large, there are many steps involved.
How to Replace Motorcycle Fuel Cock ~SR400~
(1) Empty the fuel tank (Gasoline). 。
If you see Rust in the tank, remove the rust. Soak the tank in rust remover (Sun Pole can be substituted) and leave it to soak overnight.
↓
(2) Turn off Fuel Cock.
↓
Pull out the Fuel Hose and the Negative Pressure Hose.
Please check that there are no cracks in the hose.
↓
Place the Fuel Tank from (4) on a step Ball or soft place.
↓
(5) Replace the Fuel CockAssy.
↓
? ?→? Return in this order to complete the process.
〜After replacement
◎Of course, the Gasoline blotch near Cook is gone.
◎Improved a little Gasoline smell.
If you want to keep the cost as low as possible, you can replace only the packing with a large sturdy one, but if it is an old car body, it is better to replace it with a new one.
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Fits: YAMAHA DRAG STAR 400, YAMAHA DRAG STAR250, YAMAHA MAXAM, YAMAHA SR400
I am satisfied with the design and price.
Installed on SR400Final edition.
I liked the design of the OEM Mirror, but I had trouble with the narrow field of view, the angle of the Mirror was difficult to adjust, and the installation screws were loose, causing the Mirror to rotate downward while driving. After installing this product, the screws no longer come loose and the angle can be adjusted in a wide range of motion, so I have good visibility.
I like the Square Type design, which looks like early SR.
One drawback is that while it is easy to adjust the angle, the angle changes with the weight of the cover, so it needs to be adjusted each time before running.
The price is reasonable and overall satisfaction is high.
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Not good
It's cheaper than OEM, but the fit is not good at all.
By mistake, I almost threw away the OEM fastening Bracket.
If it is for SR400, I don't think it is necessary to include Bracket.
If I get a chance, I will return to OEMBracket and check the fit.
The current situation is unsatisfactory except that it is no longer in the mouth of Kanegon.
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Fits: DUCATI SCRAMBLERIcon, DUCATI 1299 Panigale., BMW R1200RS, BMW S1000RR, SUZUKI GSX-S1000, SUZUKI GSX-S125, SUZUKI GSX-S750, SUZUKI GSX1000S KATANA, SUZUKI GSX1300R HAYABUSA, SUZUKI GSX1400, SUZUKI GSX250R, SUZUKI ST250E Type, TRIUMPH STREETSCRAMBLER, SUZUKI VANVAN200, SUZUKI BANDIT1250, SUZUKI DL1000 V-STROM1000, SUZUKI DL1000 V-STROM250, SUZUKI GRASS TRACKER BIGBOY, SUZUKI DL1000 V-STROM650, SUZUKI Intruder Classic
Cute.
Pad thickness is just right and cute.
It would be better if it were cheaper.
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Parts that should be replaced, though not often.
It will be a part that has been neglected for a long time (laughs).
I'm sure everyone is familiar with Oil Filter, but Oil Strainer is unfamiliar to most people, isn't it?
It is not something that should be replaced often, but it is an area that should be replaced at least once over a long period of time.
I felt it when I did it myself (laughs).
[OilStrainer]
‥ This is a filter attached to the end of the engine oil pump inlet. 。
When engine oil is sucked into the oil pan, it serves to prevent the intake of large foreign substances.
Similar to Oil Filter
What is the role of OilStrainer? ]
The OilStrainer is a filter for engine oil and is made of gold mesh. 。
It is responsible for removing foreign matter from the lubricating oil. 。 Gold nets are made of Sugar Crystal weave to remove large foreign objects.
Oil Filter and OilStrainer are not similar.
★ OilStraightner
... Strainer eliminates comparatively Large-grain foreign objects 。
★ Oil Filter
If there is a small component that cannot be removed by the Strainer, the Filter is used.
Strainer and Filter are distinguished by the Large size of the component to be filtered. 。
What happens when OilStrainer gets clogged? ]
‥ When the filter is clogged, impurities and sludge accumulate, and the lubricating action of the oil is reduced. 。
→This results in friction between Gold genusParts, causing wear and seizure. 。 Engine Parts can be damaged or deteriorated, leading to strange noises and a burning smell. → Worse, the Engine may even come to an abrupt stop.
If the foreign substance that is caught by the Straightener is Large, and it is mixed in the engine, it will naturally break... And if it is in the engine while running, Large will be in trouble.
In my case, it has been 25 years since I took delivery of my car and I have not had to replace it (laughs).
I opened it up and it was pretty bad (laughs).
How to exchange ~SR400~
(1) Please remove the Oil. 。
*Engine is cold.
Oil Exchange and Quantity:Doing it in Set will not waste Oil.
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(2) Place Tray under the Ku RANCase.
*When replacing the oil, the old oil drips down quite a bit. 。
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(3) There is an oil pan under the crankcase (near the drain bolt), so loosen the bolt with a wrench and remove it.
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When you remove it, you will find a coarse, small, screen-like gold screen between the oil pan and the oil pan. It is the Straightener.
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(5) Check the condition of OilStraightener.
If there seems to be no deterioration, clean the parts with →Parts cleaner and reassemble.
?If there is severe dirt or deterioration of the Gold mesh part, replace it with a new one and assemble it.
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? ?→? Put it back down in the order of ? and you are done.
Don't forget to clean the inside of the oil pan. 。
It is not a part that can be felt, but it is dangerous and expensive if the engine is broken by a foreign object, so if you have owned the car for a long time, you should definitely replace it.
I had a fine gravel-like foreign object found in my old Straightener when I was replacing it (laughs).
I'm glad I did it (laughs).
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Cracked ….
When I tried to change the orientation of the display with Snap Ring Pliers, the Glass on the surface broke.
Snap ring too hard.
I'd love to return it, but I broke it myself, so I'll give up….
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If you put on the outside of the company with a good exit, you can use Setting.
I used it for an OEMcarburetor overhaul. 。
Carburetor has parts called "Jet" such as Main Jet, Needle, Pilot Jet (Slow Jet), etc., right?
What is the Pilot Jet used in this project?
What is Pilot Jet?
Pilot Jet Slow Jet. Or, IdolJet. also called 。
Jet to lighten the fuel in the Pilot system. 。 Weighs the amount of fuel in low-speed operation from Idling 。 The larger the number, the larger the diameter and the thicker the mixture.
*Fuel is supplied from the Pilot system→Idling at low speeds.
And, Pilot Jet Or Slow Jet is exactly the same role, but it is called by a different name.
Why are they called by different names?
★ Pilot Jet
→ Name used for Mikuni Carburetor 。
★ [Slow Jet]
→Name used for KEIHINCarburetor.
The parts have the same function but are manufactured by different manufacturers.
And why Pilot Jet (Slow Jet)
need to be adjusted?
And Pilot Jet (Slow Jet) has a thing called a number.
■Thinning the number one small cherry→ thinning.
■Large kiku→ thicken the number.
This is an adjustment that
By the way, when do you actually perform setting?
Setting example
~Pilot Jet (Slow Jet)
When you want to make it thicker (to increase the number)
→Idling - unstable rotation at low speeds.
→Engine is hard to take.
→ After Fire from Exhaust System during embr.
I was in After Fire and poor starting when embracing.
Thinning (lowering the number)
→Idling sound dull.
→Black smoke coming from Exhaust System.
I think the most common case is to replace the exhaust system with an external exhaust system with good ventilation.
I also have an external Exhaust System, so I'm moving up to the OEM Pilot Jet #25→#27.5.
How to exchange ~OEMMikuniCVcarburetor
(1) Turn off Fuel Cock.
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(2) Remove Gasoline in the carburetor.
Loosen the drain bolt and it will come out.
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(3) Use Phillips Screwdriver to remove the lower no-screw of the carburetor. The screw is soft, so do not lick it. Turn counterclockwise.
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Open the inside, and you will see a large sized Bolt (main jet).
Pilot Jet is located under the
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?Use a slotted screwdriver to remove the existing Pilot Jet.
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(6) Turn the new Pilot Jet in the place where you removed it by hand gently first, and finally tighten it with a slotted screwdriver. Do not overtighten.
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Large sturdy if it is restored with ? ?→?.
After that, start the engine and adjust the speed of idling by Pilot screw, etc.
The number of Pilot Jet that is originally attached to SR400 is #25.
〜After replacement
○ After Fire at the time of embellishment has disappeared.
○The connection of acceleration from low speed to medium speed has become smoother.
If the carburetor vehicles are changed to an external exhaust system, I think it is better to adjust not only the OEM carburetor but also the external carburetor.
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Engine startup in SMART.
I used to say that Parenthesis is good to be able to start the engine with a single KICK without Decompression, but I don't want to overdo it anymore, so I use Decompression to start the engine without compression.
Since the OEMDecompression and Decompression cable are 25 years old since purchase, we became concerned about aging deterioration and purchased a new OEMCable. 。
In fact, the decompression lever was reluctant to move, and even oil-up did not improve the situation, so I thought it was time to replace it.
This SR400 does not have a Cell Motor, but only KICK start, and even KICK is quite heavy unlike the Small Engine Displacement Volume of CUB.
What is SR Decompression? ]
What is Decompression? De Compression. for short "Pull the compression, lose it." or some such meaning 。
When the pressure in the cylinder increases during the compression process at kick start, pulling the decompression lever opens the exhaust valve slightly to release the compression pressure. → as you often say. "Uncompress." That's what I mean.
Therefore, step lightly on the Kick Arm to get a good starting position for the Engine. *Position past the compression step. It is possible to produce
*Position past the compression step. = Also called upper dead point.
What is the role of Decompression? ]
Decompression, as the name implies, is an action to relieve pressure, and it has the role of making the engine start smooth.
The point at which Decompression acts is the pressure inside the Cylinder.
Decompression reduces the burden of starting the engine by allowing air compressed in the cylinder to escape out of the cylinder during engine startup.
That is
No Decompression→. "air" +a little more than usual The Weight of Piston."
Decompression Yes→. The Weight of Piston."
By deflating the Cylinder, the weight of the kick pedal can be reduced.
What is the Merit of Decompression? ]
Smooth KICK is now available. Even women and those who are not strong enough can do it.
○○Ketching prevention. It is a 399cc single-cylinder piston without →Balancer, so it is heavy.
Only the decompression cable was replaced this time since the lever and other parts still seem to be usable.
When choosing a Decompression cable, please note the length of the Cable.
Cable length = Handlebar shape
It would be good if you could think in terms of
Example.)
Separate handle→shorter than OEM. If the length is too short, the handlebar will easily get tangled when it is cut, and the wire may break.
■Trucker handleetc. handlebar Up Type→longer than OEM; Cable is too short to reach or too taut to put in.
■NORMAL or Continental handleetc.→OEM is sufficient.
Replacement procedure.
1) Remove the Front Tappet Cover on the exhaust side when the Piston comes to the top while watching the Indicator, and check that the Locker Arm is in the Free position.
If you pull it out without doing this, the shaft cutout will hit the locker arm and prevent it from being inserted.
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(2) Remove the OEM's CableBracket from the bracket since it is fixed with the bracket.
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(3) Remove the Bracket, Cable, and Lever, as the Cable becomes Free when removed. 。
Decompression cables should be loosened with the play set to the maximum large setting.
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(4) Replace the Cable, place it in the Lever, and fix the Bracket in (2), and you are done.
As for the Point,
Explore the upper dead center→ Remove the Front Tappet Cover on the exhaust side.
If you could be careful not to do this, it will break down.
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Original Japan Daytona x Nissin 14mm axial . Took 3 days to arrive to Singapore from mailing date .
Easy bleeding during installation . Upgraded from 11mm to 14mm axial. Love the lever feels. Installed on Yamaha Vixion-R 155 . View detail