Reviews
It's confusing.
When you purchase Slip-on Silencer.
Click here to purchase Gasket." I bought it together with the Full Exhaust System because there was a LINK with it, but it was a part that I would not use unless I was replacing the Full Exhaust System.
I learned from the Instruction Manual for the Exhaust System I received that a joint gasket is required for the Slip-on Silencer for the first time, so this product was a waste of time.
I would like you to put up a LINK to the recommended parts to purchase for the product.
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OEM same etc., inexpensive and good.
It was used for the second Exhaust System removal and installation.
The texture was almost the same as OEM.
Since it is Gasket, the feel is comfortable.
Quantity:1 Set of 2pcs. so it is also cosmetically pleasing.
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WhiteLight and good looking!
It's super easy because all you have to do is change the Valve.
I was able to purchase Valve's length and fit without concern because of the information provided by its predecessors.
D-TRACKER-X's dark, orange-tinged light has been brightened to white.
I haven't driven at night yet, so I haven't been able to experience the true effect, but the impression of the motorcycle will change considerably just by having white light.
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Bright and low power consumption
I was worried about whether I could install it on my KSR2 since the body is longer, but I saw the impressions of someone who had already installed it on his KSR and he said it could be installed, so I bought it and installed it.
The length was a limit, but I was able to install it, the Others had no problems with the installation, and the rubber cover went on without modification.
The beam coverage has been widened. The optical axis remains the same and is large and sturdy. The high beam illuminates high up and is even brighter, so you have to be careful of oncoming cars.
I also changed the tail lamp to LED, so the power consumption was reduced a lot. I installed the LeftSwitch of the previous model in my car, so I can switch from LightOff to Light when Halogen is on.
Idling dropped about 200 RPM when switched to On, but switching from LightOn to LightOff when LED has no effect on Idling.
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OEM same etc.
Quantity:1 Set of 2pcs. to Spare when returning to OEM.
It's good enough
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C125 is the best choice
I purchased it to replace C125 consumables. I chose it without hesitation because the price was cheap and the brand Kitako was trustworthy.
You won't feel a huge difference, but I think it will still be better than the stock version. I am looking forward to its durability. -------------------------------------------------- -------- I purchased it to replace C125 consumables. I chose it without hesitation because the price was cheap and I trusted the brand Kitako. You may not feel a huge difference, but I think it will still be better than the stock version. I am looking forward to its durability. Powered by Google Translator
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It's always this
I always keep it as a spare. It's inexpensive, the quality is good, and it's a standard item. View detail
Genuine DID 420NZ3 Gold Spare Chain Link
I do not really use these too often as they are basically one step up from a push bike chain anyway. But, it is always good to have them in stock just in case a customer needs one. I found this chain link by just searching through the DID inventory on Webike website. It was really easy to find so you should be just fine. I ordered a few other different chain links along with this as I do like options with spare links. All were shipped together and this saved some shipping cost. My order arrived in 5 days from being shipped. The chain link came in a nice sealed packet with all that is needed to refit. You do get a not seem to get the white grease packet in this size chain but that's ok, I have a lot of these anyway. The chain link is very well made, it also is in the gold colour so nice looking too and it is also embossed with the DID logo so you know it's genuine. Very happy with these small purchases and these will keep me going for future. Thank you Webike. View detail
Fits: HONDA monkey, HONDA Benly CD90, HONDA Super Cub 90, HONDA Super Cub 50, HONDA gorilla (Gorilla spp., esp. western gorilla, Gorilla gorilla)
I bought it just for the color.
I won't know for sure until I ride it for a while, but I bought it just for the color, so I am not particular about its performance. View detail
Easy Dress-up
I bought it to replace the rear shock absorber.
One point can be fashionable.
When using this product, the washer that comes with the Rear shock absorber may or may not be used, so it is necessary to read the Instruction Manual.
Rear shock absorber in the photo is SP Mukawa Rear shock absorber Black 06-04-0152
This one product contains 4 Nut.
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Quantity with high grip tire because it works well.:Set Exchange is a Recommendation
It definitely works better than the OEM Shoe, and the Feel when Brake is applied is good, especially the Rear, which makes me want to use it more aggressively.
Actually, before this DAYTONA made, I replaced the front and rear Brakes of the LITTLE CUB I used to own with Shoe made by a certain company, but the Rear started to squeal after one winter, not even a year had passed. It didn't affect the performance much, but when I was on the street, the Rear started to squeal. "Kikki!" However, the brake squeal stopped after I replaced it with a Daytona brake the summer before last. After that, I rode for a little more than a year without brake squeal.
The SUPER CUB110 is more powerful and heavier than the LITTLE CUB, so you can feel the effect of the SUPER CUB110. (Not as good as HUNTER and other disc brakes, of course.) The fluffy feeling is gone. I also feel that the front end sinks more deeply than the OEM when fully breaking.
Note that before replacing the Tire and Brake Shoe, the Rear sometimes locked up in Panic Breaking, but I think that was due to the OEMTire being poor. (The braking distance is not short because it locks)
After replacing the tires, I tried full breaking on a safe road, and both Front and Rear stopped firmly without locking. The fact that it did not lock up is probably due to the fact that I changed the tires to high grip BS BATTLAX BT-39SS at the same time. I am sure that the brake stops faster and shorter than before the change. I will not recommend this Brake Shoe with OEM Tire because I think it will lock up spectacularly! (Lol)
I have not ridden my JA44 so far, but I have replaced both front and rear with DAYTONA Shoe, so the braking balance is good.
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Did not fit.
The conformity information is incorrect. I was disappointed because I purchased it on faith. View detail
Parts that rarely break - Rare Case (LOL)
Flywheel has been replaced!
I don't have a Pin, even though it's called Flywheel. (;・∀・)
→ I replaced it because it was rusted.
Flywheel
。 It stores the rotational energy generated by the engine and transmitted to the crankshaft, supplies it to the drive wheels, and helps the engine to rotate by inertial force. The crankshaft is the engine's weight. It is neither too light nor too heavy.
[Flywheel has a glitch.
‥
▲Clutch will not disconnect, when Clutch is connected. "Skinny The symptoms include vibration and abnormal noise.
▲Idling is not stable and vibration increases.
By the way, in my case, I felt a strange noise when changing GEAR and Idling was going up and down (lol).
→ I thought it was because the weight had changed due to corrosion from rust or something.
In fact, Flywheel is basically not subject to much wear and tear, and with typical use can often last as long as the life of the vehicle body.
*On the contrary, when it becomes unusable, → corrosion or chipping.
Replacement Procedure]
1) Remove the middle nut with a universal holder and a socket wrench. 2) Remove the middle nut with a socket wrench.
↓
(2) Remove Nut and Washer.
↓
(3) Screw in the head of the Fly Wheel Puller.
Prepare for the Fly Wheel Puller, because it cannot be removed without the Fly Wheel Puller.
↓
(4) Since it is an Opposite Thread Screw, it is tightened by turning it counterclockwise.
↓
(5) Screw in the puller screw. 。 Normal Thread Screw.
↓
6) Place the MONKEYSpanner between the Head and push the bar down to easily pull it out.
↓
(vii) By turning the Shaft of the Puller and pushing in the head of the Crankshaft, the Flywheel comes out in front of the Flywheel.
↓
Replace ?Flywheel and assemble with ?→?.
[After exchange]
◎The noise during Gear changing is gone.
◎No strange vibrations 。
I think Rust caused this symptom because the Flywheel was not performing normal rotation and rotation timing.
It is rare that Flywheel cannot be used, but you should check it when you feel the symptoms or have a chance to open the crankcase.
Especially for older CUBs.
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I put it on my RG 50Gamma.
It's just like changing a light bulb.
There is no problem
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KITACO Drive Sprocket (Front)
It has good quality that can replace the genuine product.
Kitako products are popular with many buyers and are of excellent quality.
Considering the low cost and long durability, it would be difficult to choose a better product than this product.
I will continue to use this product and thank you for allowing me to use this great product. -------------------------------------------------- -------- It has good quality that can replace the genuine product. Kitako products are popular with many buyers and are of excellent quality. Considering the low cost and long durability, it would be difficult to choose a better product than this product. I will continue to use this product and thank you for allowing me to use this great product. Powered by Google Translator
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Cosmetically good.
This is the only Sprocket that I can think of. I use the same number of pins. I use the same number of pins, and as a matter of course, I have no problems. View detail
It's cosy.
I think the quality is the same as OEM etc. I don't know about durability yet. View detail
Fits: HONDA Super Cub 90, HONDA Super Cub 50, HONDA DIO, HONDA LEAD, HONDA DAX, HONDA PCX, HONDA MONKEY, HONDA C110, HONDA GIORNO, HONDA DIO CHESTA, HONDA GORILLA, HONDA TODAY, HONDA CRF50F, HONDA BENLY50CD90, HONDA BENLY50CD50, HONDA SUPER CUB70
Low profile parts...a blind spot.
The circumstances of the exchange,
It seems like the oil is getting low ? There is a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust system. I can understand if it is right after starting the engine in winter, but the white smoke doesn't disappear even after the engine is warmed up.
[Symptoms of Oil drop]
▲ BlueWhite smoke is emitted when Engine RPM is low.
▲When the Engine is stopped for a while and then started, White smoke is produced.
White smoke is produced when the Engine speed is increased after Idling for a while. 。
→ This is exactly what it is.
[Cause of Oil drop.
‥
(1) Valve wear
Damage due to age-related deterioration
Expansion and contraction due to temperature change
Deterioration due to dirty engine oil
→?Hardening of Stem Seal Suspect damage due to age-related deterioration.
Because... Stem seals are rubber, and I thought they would deteriorate (laughs).
Valve stem seal
The Valve stem seal is attached to the valve guide in the engine head and prevents engine oil supplied to the head from flowing into the combustion chamber through the sliding surfaces of the valve stem and guide.
Valve stem seal inside the cylinder head.
[Deterioration over time].
→Valve stem seal will not adhere to Valve Stem over time 。 When the oil level drops, the consumption of oil increases, resulting in poor engine performance due to lack of oil, abnormal noise, and in some cases, overheating and seizure.
White smoke and odd odors also appear, the first symptom listed. →That's what this is (laughs).
This replacement is an OEM Stem Seal.
procedure
First, remove the Dynamo cover to expose the Flywheel. Similarly, remove the side cover of the Cylinder head.
(2) Align the notch on the Crankcase with the top dead center mark (T) of the Flywheel and the 0Mark of the Camshaft Sprocket with the notch on the Cylinder head.
If it is difficult to match the tensioners, remove the bolt that is holding the tensioner tension of the camshaft chain tensioner and bleed off the hydraulic pressure.
Remove the locker arm, remove the camshaft, remove the valve spring using a valve spring compressor, remove the stem seal, and replace it with a new one. 。 After installation, use the Thickness Gauge and Tappet Adjust Wrench to return the Tappet clearance to the proper setting.
(5) Assemble the unit in the reverse order of disassembly. Finally, the amount of oil is checked and replenished before starting.
Effect after replacement
......White smoke has disappeared and the exhaust Gas smell has been eliminated!
It is not a part that comes out from the outside, so it is not an easy part to replace, but please check it when you overhaul the Engine or Cylinder head.
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good stars
Звезда 15 звёзд от Kitako как всегда отличного качества, беру уже не первый раз. Пользуюсь и наслаждаюсь как она чётко работает. Подходит как оригинал. Работает чётко.
The star of 15 stars from Kitako is, as always, of excellent quality, it's not the first time I've taken it. I use and enjoy how it works clearly. Fits like the original. It works clearly.
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The star 15 stars from Kitako as always of excellent quality, I have been taking it for the first time. I use and enjoy how it works clearly. Suitable as the original. It works clearly.
The Star of 15 Stars from Kitako is, As Always, of Excellent Quality, It's Not the First Time I've Taken It. I Use and Enjoy How It Works Clearly. Fits Like the Original. It Works Clearly.
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It is fun to try the Best Match with FSprocket!
I always enjoy climbing a certain public road with a 3-speed LITTLE CUB, but 3rd gear is not good at all when the DRIVEN is set at 40 with the standard +1. However, the engine load was too large during the long full throttle sections, and I did not know when the engine would break down. I wanted to give the engine a little more room to rev the engine so that even at 40km/h in 2nd gear, the engine was not at full throttle, so I decided to raise the DRIVEN 2 steps at once to 40, skipping over the standard 39. I didn't have a very good Image at the standard 39 Ding.
So I lowered the Driven to 38 Ding and the result was as I expected at first. I was able to get out of 2nd gear at 40km/h±α without having to go full throttle on every Corner. I was happy to find that I did not have to drop to low even on the tightest Corner climbs, and I did not have to drop Engine RPM on most Corner exits when entering the Corner, so as a result, I was able to drive without spoiling the acceleration feeling too much.
In addition, the engine RPMs are now more generous in 3rd gear on the downhill corner, allowing the driver to enjoy a greater sense of speed when entering the corner.
It's fun to experiment with different FRSprockets and see how they run.
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