Reviews
Good product
Fits kawasaki w800 Improved the sponginess feeling Arrived well without any problem with customs Good service Highly recommended View detail
Fits: HONDA APE, HONDA BENLY50, HONDA DAX, HONDA MONKEY, HONDA CT110 HUNTER CUB, HONDA GB250 CLUBMAN, HONDA FTR223, HONDA CL400, HONDA FTR220, YAMAHA SRV250, YAMAHA RENAISSA, YAMAHA BRONCO, YAMAHA TW225, YAMAHA TW200, YAMAHA SR400, YAMAHA SR500, SUZUKI VANVAN, SUZUKI GN125, SUZUKI GS125, SUZUKI VOLTY
Not very good
The paint on some of these has a bumpy texture, like the units weren't clean when the paint was applied. One of them had an electrical short upon installation which was popping my signal fuse. Luckily I had bought a spare. Installaton wasn't a big problem, but I wish they used thicker gauge of wire, it's very thin. Very inexpensive blinkers, but you get what you pay for. I wish I had spent a little more and gotten better quality blinkers. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI ER-5, KAWASAKI GPX600R, KAWASAKI KLE500, KAWASAKI KLF220, KAWASAKI Eliminator 600, MAGNI 1000 Australia2, MOTOGUZZI 1000 Ditna RS, bimota YB-4, bimota YB-6, bimota Dietsch 1000, bimota Flannel 1000, HONDA CB1100F, HONDA CB1100R, KAWASAKI 1000GTR, KAWASAKI 250TR, KAWASAKI EN400, KAWASAKI EN500, KAWASAKI EX-4, KAWASAKI FX400R, KAWASAKI GPZ1000RX
Idling stabilized?
I changed the oil as part of maintenance, and it seems to have stabilized the idling, but I don't feel that the power is increased. I really don't know if the period to change the oil was too short and the oil was not so deteriorated, but it is an old motorcycle and I will replace the oil as soon as possible. Next time I will buy a Torque wrench and tighten it with the specified Torque. View detail
Genuine DID replacement chain link
As I said before, I always like to have some of these in stock in case of any issue during fitting different chains. The DID 520ERV7 is one I do not surrently have in stock so no spares. I found this chain link by just searching through the DID inventory on Webike website. It was really easy to find so you should be just fine. I ordered a few other different chain links along with this as I do like options with spare links. All were shipped together and this saved some shipping cost. My order arrived in 5 days from being shipped. The chain link came in a nice sealed packet with all that is needed to refit. You do get the white grease packet in this size chain so that's always a good thing, I have a lot of these anyway but you cannot have too many. The chain link is very well made one, it also is in the gold colour so nice looking too and it is also embossed with the DID logo so you know it's genuine. These chains are generally used on tracxk bikes from a 530 or 525 conversion so I do use a lot of them. As you can imagine, I go through a lot. Very happy with these small purchases and these will keep me going for future. Thank you Webike. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA tricker, YAMAHA YZF-R15, YAMAHA YZF-R125, YAMAHA YBR250, YAMAHA TZR250R, YAMAHA SRX250, YAMAHA RZ250R, SUZUKI Bandid 400, SUZUKI Bandid 250, SUZUKI glass tracker, SUZUKI wolf, SUZUKI ST250E, SUZUKI RGV25O Gamma, SUZUKI GSX250S Katana, KTM 390 Duke., KTM 200 dukes, KTM 125 dukes, KAWASAKI Zephyr 400, KAWASAKI Australia, New Zealand and the United States, KAWASAKI ZZR250
It was a little small.
[How is it used?
I purchased this product because the Cover I was using had deteriorated and torn.
It is used in a covered parking lot for dust protection and anti-theft purposes.
Was the one you received as per Image?
Yes
I think it is solid for the low price.
Was the installation difficult?
It is difficult to discern the front and back.
How was your experience with it?
I looked at the size chart and purchased the size listed for my car model, but it was a little small.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
None
Other items that would be helpful
Installation points and hang/Availability and clarity of the Instruction Manual/Points to consider/Items to purchase/Opinions and requests to the Manufacturer
I thought it would be nice to have a Mark or Line that could be used as a landmark so that it would be easier to see the front and back.
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The size is just right and the texture is good.
Used in 2008 YZF-R1.
LengthSize is also really Exactly.
I did not originally intend to use parts cleaner, but I was able to get in without any difficulty without using Bond paint parts cleaner.
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Fits: KAWASAKI ER-5, KAWASAKI GPX600R, KAWASAKI KLE500, KAWASAKI KLF220, KAWASAKI Eliminator 600, MAGNI 1000 Australia2, MOTOGUZZI 1000 Ditna RS, bimota YB-4, bimota YB-6, bimota Dietsch 1000, bimota Flannel 1000, HONDA CB1100F, HONDA CB1100R, KAWASAKI 1000GTR, KAWASAKI 250TR, KAWASAKI EN400, KAWASAKI EN500, KAWASAKI EX-4, KAWASAKI FX400R, KAWASAKI GPZ1000RX
usually
The GPZ900R Plug is
NGK recommends DR9EA, an improved version of DR8ES
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I got a lot of iron powder.
I used it to clean up my new MONKEY125. It was my first and second DIY oil change, but it was done without any problem. View detail
OEM Product has been discontinued.
I bought this because I thought the speedometer was probably out of cable because it stopped displaying the speedometer. At first, I tried to purchase a Kawasaki OEM Product, but it was out of stock, so I was wondering what to do. After disassembling the unit, I found that the Cable was also out of order, so I replaced it with this one and the Speedometer worked fine. View detail
It got brighter.
I purchased this because Light was dark.
It brightened up as expected!
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Fits: KAWASAKI estrea, KAWASAKI 250TR, KAWASAKI W400, KAWASAKI W650, HONDA Shadow 400, HONDA GB250, HONDA FTR223, KAWASAKI Estrella RS, KAWASAKI Vulcan 400, KAWASAKI Vulcan 400 Classic, SUZUKI Intruder 400 Classic, SUZUKI glass tracker, SUZUKI Glass Tracker Big Boy, YAMAHA SR400/500, YAMAHA TW200/E, YAMAHA TW225/E, YAMAHA Dragster 1100, YAMAHA Dragster 1100 Classic, YAMAHA Dragster 250, YAMAHA Dragster 400
It was defective.
After installation, the Fuse jumped when I checked the operation. I checked and found that the Bolt of the Blinker's Wiring Fix had contacted the Earth of the Horn and was shorted. I did not expect high quality because of the low price, but if you are going to sell them under the GarageT&F brand, you should at least check the operation of all of them before shipping, etc. I was disappointed when I installed it after processing and repairing it. View detail
Fits: HONDA APE, HONDA BENLY50, HONDA DAX, HONDA MONKEY, HONDA CT110 HUNTER CUB, HONDA GB250 CLUBMAN, HONDA FTR223, HONDA CL400, HONDA FTR220, YAMAHA SRV250, YAMAHA RENAISSA, YAMAHA BRONCO, YAMAHA TW225, YAMAHA TW200, YAMAHA SR400, YAMAHA SR500, SUZUKI VANVAN, SUZUKI GN125, SUZUKI GS125, SUZUKI VOLTY
Blinker replacement
Replacement was easy, but the Valve needed to be replaced because it was a high flasher. View detail
Appearance Refreshing
It's warm and looks simple, so it's great. View detail
ESTRELLA's crying place.
ESTRELLA's Restore, which has become immobile, maybe the end of the line here.
Just before it became immobile, it was leaking oil frequently, and I was looking for various causes this time while restoring it.
(1) Deterioration of Piston ring → done.
(2) CamTensioner problems→done.
(3) Gasket degradation → done.
I have been repairing the grains in various ways, but there was a blind spot.
There was oil leakage from the root of the oil pipe on the crank side.
Is it Gasket?
I took it off for a test, and as I expected, it was Gasket. I replaced it.
Oil pipe, as the name implies, is a pipe through which oil passes, but why is it attached?
It has to do with oil pumps.
Oil pump
Equipped on the lower front side of the cylinder block and driven in conjunction with the crankshaft.
The OilCleaner sucks up oil accumulated in the oil pan and supplies oil to the sliding parts of the cylinder head and cylinder block. 。
Think of it as gravity, so Oil goes down too, it accumulates in the Oil pan.
The oil pipe is where the oil passes through.
Oil pipe
Oil pipe is a piping that serves as a route to feed engine oil. 。 Engine oil plays a role in lubrication and cooling, and oil leaks can cause seizure and other problems. 。 Also called oil transmission pipe.
Engine oil not only lubricates the engine, but also cools it.
If the engine is air-cooled, the engine oil cooling effect is even more important.
And if the oil as an auxiliary role for cooling does not circulate correctly due to leakage, .......
→If the amount of engine oil is less than the proper amount, a strange noise may occur while driving, or the engine sound may become louder than usual. 。 In addition, low engine oil reduces the natural lubricating effect of the engine, causing a risk of engine seizure in some cases.
In my case, I don't know why it didn't burn out... I was able to manage to ride it while adding oil... now that I think about it, it's scary (laughs).
Gasket replacement.
Procedure
Remove the oil pipe from the cylinder head side, the carburetor side, and the crankcase side.
↓
(2) Gasket of rubber is confirmed at the tip of the pipe on the crankcase side. 。
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Replace (3).
↓
Assemble in the order of ? ?→?.
[After exchange]
◎Oil leaks are completely gone 。
◎A little test drive made it run Smooth.
This completely fixed the Oil leak. 。
Regardless of the year, it is a part that comes in contact with oil, so deterioration is to be expected. If you feel oil leakage even a little, it may be a good idea to suspect this part. 。
It seems that ESTRELLA has many examples of repairs here (laughs).
The only thing left to do is to adjust Tappet.
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It is definitely better than home-made.
I used this product when I installed ESTRELLA's Center Stand on my 250TR. I had been using a bracket I bought at Home center as a substitute for the stand, but this product refreshes the underside of the stand and solves all my problems. It also seems to be durable.
It is functioning well. I am satisfied.
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If the vehicle is in the 90's, I would recommend replacement.
I started Restore of ESTRELLA, which is no longer ridden and immobilized.
Just before I stopped riding, I had frequent oil leaks, and I was looking for various causes this time while I was restoring the car.
(1) Deterioration of Piston ring → done.
(2) CamTensioner problems→this time.
(3) Gasket degradation→ yet.
I would like to look at the Camshaft Chain Tensioner.
I was suspicious because of the following symptoms
▲Oil leak
▲Engine noise is annoying and rattles.
The higher the rpm, the slower it gets.
Because of the symptoms of the disease.
[Camshaft Chain Tensioner]
It is designed to prevent the camshaft chain from loosening or sagging, and is made of rubber or spring. 。 The camshaft chain is a very large component located above the cylinder head.
If there is a problem with the Chain tensioner...
Oil leaks or oozes, rattling noises when cold, and the Engine warning light may come on. 。 The chain tensioner is attached to the chain line between the camshaft and crankshaft inside the engine in connection with the chain slider.
It seems that the Camshaft Chain starts to stretch after 20,000km, and the failure of ESTRELLA seems to be a design defect depending on the year. I have an Initial Model, so bingo!
The Camshaft Chain Tensioner is supposed to maintain the proper tension of the Camshaft Chain so that it does not go out of control, but since it is defective, the Camshaft Chain is running out of control while it is stretched.
I would like to make an exchange.
According to the story, after 2000, Tensioner is the countermeasure, so I used that one.
It seems that there are a lot of Tensioner's galling in the 90's cars.
Procedure
(1) Open the Head and remove the Tensioner. 。
Open the Head from the vehicle Left and remove the Tensioner. 。 You just take Bolt in two places.
The old Tensioner has some signs of being scraped by friction. I guess it was probably scraped by rubbing against the Camshaft Chain.
↓
(2) Put on a new Tensioner.
↓
(3) Complete with Head's Cover.
Oil can be worked without removing it. However, it is easier to work if the vehicle body is level, so it is recommended to use a center stand.
[After exchange]
The Tappet sound is bothersome, but the clattering sound is gone.
There is no oil leak near the cylinder, but there seems to be oil leak near the oil line, so it will take more time.
If you are driving a 90's vehicle like myself, or if you are planning to buy a used vehicle, I think you should replace the Tensioner with one from 2000 or later.
I believe that this repair is possible on an individual Level.
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Please examine things carefully as this is a Large cut-off place.
We are currently working on a Restore of the immovable ESTRELLA,
We recently replaced a Camshaft Chain Tensioner.
Since the head cover was opened at that time, the head gasket was also replaced.
The original reason for the oil leak was the wear of the Tensioner, but since the oil was leaking through the →Gasket, the Gasket was unusable.
It would be wise to replace it. Basically, Gasket is not reusable.
Gasket and packing are used in various places, but what is the function of the gasket attached to the head cover?
[Head Gasket]
Gasket between the Cylinder block and Cylinder head of an internal combustion engine.
The seal must be strong enough to keep the internal pressure of the cylinder from escaping and to prevent coolant and engine oil from flowing into the cylinder, and it must have the highest strength of all the gaskets used for engines.
Why do we have to replace it?
Material of Head Gasket is Rubber 。
It deteriorates when exposed to outside air. In addition, the oil and the mixture of air are exposed to the air, so it is a very severe condition.
Deterioration may be severe.
[When it deteriorates...]
Oil cannot be held in place, which naturally leads to a decrease in oil.
As a result, the → combustion chamber suffers Damage! 。 The reduction in Oil will cause the Engine to burn out, further increasing repair costs and time.
The difference is obvious when you consider the cost of Gasket and the time it takes to change Gaskets (laughs).
Better to replace it before that happens.
Replacement Procedure] 〜For ~Head Gasket~.
Remove the head cover.
↓
The rubber rim on the reverse side of the head cover is the Gasket.
↓
(3) Remove it by pinching it with the tip of Tweezers or Radio pliers.
↓
(4) Clean the area where the Gasket was installed with parts cleaner, etc.
↓
(5) Place the new Gasket on the reverse side of the Head cover. Align the position properly.
↓
(6) Adjust the Head cover to the original position and tighten the Bolt to complete.
[After exchange]
Oil leakage near the head cover has been completely eliminated.
However, there is an oil leak near the oil pump.
I am glad that after the purchase, I never had to open the Engine area at all.
Is Gasket a low-cost or OEM product?
Gasket is easily available at low prices and is often convenient and substitutable, but OEM products should be recommended.
Since the durability of the engine area and other parts is required for durability, it is better to choose an OEM product or a product equivalent to an OEM product if you intend to drive the car for a long time.
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XG250 TRICKER
I use it on my XG250 TRICKER.
The Motorcycle Cover is a consumable item, so this thickness is sufficient for this price.
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Fits: KAWASAKI ER-5, KAWASAKI GPX600R, KAWASAKI KLE500, KAWASAKI KLF220, KAWASAKI Eliminator 600, MAGNI 1000 Australia2, MOTOGUZZI 1000 Ditna RS, bimota YB-4, bimota YB-6, bimota Dietsch 1000, bimota Flannel 1000, HONDA CB1100F, HONDA CB1100R, KAWASAKI 1000GTR, KAWASAKI 250TR, KAWASAKI EN400, KAWASAKI EN500, KAWASAKI EX-4, KAWASAKI FX400R, KAWASAKI GPZ1000RX
NGK DR9EA 3437
There was some corrosion, so we will replace it regularly from now on. View detail
Changed from a bifurcated Wire type for independent Carburetor
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The FCR Carburetor Body is used for the carburetor, but it is not a two-cylinder one, which is often used in car-specific kits, but independent for the front and rear cylinders.
(Independent Carburetor is designated because the radical Camshaft has teamed up with)
For Independent Carburetor, generally comes with a Car Model Kit Throttle Wire branched in the middle." is commonly used.
It is normal to have two branches and four wire ends because they are used for the open and closed sides, respectively.
That's how I used to do it.
To be precise, the Reverse Side was removed because of the poor Throttle Fee Ring, and only the Open Side was used by maintaining the smoothness with frequent maintenance.
The fee ring has been improved considerably since it is only on the open side, but there is still a branch joint in the middle of the ring, and it lacks directness.
To overcome this, we prepared this Wire to pull each Carburetor to Direct.
Wire itself is quite normal, nothing special to say.
If anything, the middle Joint is Material:I'm glad it's Stainless Steel, because I don't have to worry about Rust.
However, there is a bad part, the molding shape of Thailand is a little rough...
Of course, it is not unusable, and there is nothing wrong with using it as it is, but it is not a problem to use the bean-jam-filled wafers. (Monaka) I am concerned about the raised areas of the mesh that were formed by the matching process.
Since the thailand part may rotate slightly at the beginning of opening or just before full opening, the round thailand part will improve the fee ring at the very small opening angle.
I used File to round it out before I used it.
Even if the fee rings are not affected, the thailand coils without any snagging are easier to maintain.
Also, there is no coated tube inside the Outer tube.
It is a Wire configuration with no features whatsoever, consisting of Spiral Tubes made of the old-fashioned Gold genus.
So the first lubrication is a Large thing.
Without oil, the feel will be rough, and with high viscosity oil, it will be sluggish.
On an FCR Carburetor Body with the Reverse Side removed like mine, it is fatal and life-threatening not to be able to spackle back.
This is not limited to this Wire, but try it often before lubricating with the best Oil.
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