Although it is quite difficult to install and set, it performs as intended.

I machined a lot of the suspension to install it. It took a long time and was hard work, but I was very satisfied after installing this. Because the performance came out as I hoped. The motorcycle is stable and no longer bouncing off the bumps. View detail

Installed without orifice modification

Since the suspension is originally soft, we installed it without orifice and pre-road as it is.
Cushioning has increased considerably when driving the OffRoad course.
Even in the case of a series of small gaps (ruts), there is no need to reduce the speed of the Large Gap.
Surprisingly good buy. View detail

Only Universal requires processing and adjustments, but it works!

I changed the spring to a DRC spring to get rid of the OEM's soft, uncontrolled, sloppy legs, but
It's a bit easier to apply the load than before, but it's still floppy due to the lack of pressure side damping.
That's why we decided to install this product, which can adjust the pressure side damping force.

When installing, it is necessary to select the size and processing according to the car model because it is a universal product.
I'll talk about the process in the second half of the impressions, but the results of the test run after installation were generally as expected.

First of all, when operating at low speed on a relatively clean road surface, unlike NORMAL, the pressure side damping force is applied firmly, so that the damping force is not applied to the road surface.
The power to press the front tire to the ground does not escape and the grip and ground contact feeling are improved.
When the Gap is passed, etc., the internal Valve will open to release the pressure.
The feeling of being bounced around like I felt with the NORMAL has decreased and the Front tire feels more secure.
As a result, the front tire, which used to move sluggishly and restlessly when driving on unpaved uneven terrain, has been replaced by the
The bike now follows the road without any extra movement, allowing me to increase my pace without worry.
During the test run, I made a mistake in the initial settings and tightened the pre-road one more turn.
Even so, it was much more stable than NORMAL on a little dirt road in the neighborhood, maybe a little harder in the back.

This product changes only the pressure side while the elongation side remains dependent on the NORMALDamperROD Orifice.
In the case of DamperROD, the elongation side is basically against the reaction force of the spring, so the range of the stroke speed is narrow and the
On the other hand, the pressure side has to deal with various inputs from the road surface, from slow to sudden and large inputs.
In order to prevent the car from locking up under sudden input, NORMAL pressure damping is almost not effective in normal driving range.
This causes the spring to contract more than necessary in response to road surface input, and then it repeatedly tries to extend due to the rebound.
By making sure the compression damping is effective, Spring will not contract more than necessary, and the rebound of extension will be reduced.
As a result, a sloppy foot that moves up and down more than necessary is changed to a foot that grasps the road surface moistly.
The characteristics of a real cartridge can be made more finely, and in the first place, the extension side is completely different.
Performance-wise, it's not going to be Cartlidge Fork no matter how hard you try.
Compared to the NORMAL DamperROD, I think it's a good product that can do a large performance improvement at low cost.

In this case, I installed it on a KLX230, and the following modifications were required

DamperROD's Orifice Expansion Large (Cancellation of NORMAL Orifice)
Cut and trim the Spring for the entire length of the Valve (for vehicles that do not use the SP collar).
DamperROD I.D. and BodyQuantity:Production of collars to fill the diameter difference of Set diameter

The above is now required.

? I think that there is an idea that it is OK to ignore it because it is almost not damped originally, but
When the Release valve releases the pressure at the time of sudden input such as landing of jump, the pressure is released.
In order to prevent a sudden increase in pressure at the end, the maximum Large value is limited by the NORMAL orifice diameter.
The diameter and number of holes are selected to ensure almost the same cross-sectional area as that of the DamperROD bore.
After drilling the hole with a ball machine, I clamped it on the lathe and applied paper to get the BALI.
I think you can get away with Hand drill, iron file & hand paper if you try hard enough.
? After cutting with a sander for the required number of turns, sear it with a burner to make the coil at the end adhere.
This process will anneal the spring, so we only fire the smallest length necessary.
It would probably be better to re-temper them, but I don't think it would actually cause much of a problem.
Finally, you can put a flat grinding wheel on the Grinder to make the seat.
? As for the color, I own a tabletop lathe, so I can make a color of this level quickly, but
Normally, this is the most important part of the Neck.
This time, I made it not from Aluminum or Brass, but from a resinous material (strong enough to be used in GEAR etc.) that contains reinforced Glass fiber.
It is lightly press-fitted to the ValveBody to prevent it from coming off, and is sized to the DamperROD to prevent it from rattling.
This makes it easier to attach and detach when setting, and I chose resin so that I don't have to shave off the press fit tolerance severely.

When this product is installed by personal DIY, I think that the color production of No.3 will be the most Neck, but
If you have a gold processing shop in your neighborhood, you might be able to get a lot of requests from individuals these days.

Finally, my hope for the manufacturer is that, although the setting will be refined in the future
I'm wondering why there is no option for different rates on the spring of the pressure side Release valve.
The Rae Stick product I have installed on another vehicle came with three different Rate Springs.
When releasing the damping force at sudden input, the pressure value at the beginning of releasing can be set in Pre-road, but the pressure value at the end of releasing can be set in
After that, the release method (the rise angle of the pressure curve) can only be set by changing the spring rate.
Of course it depends on the future setting, but I think it would be good if there is a Rate difference in Option. View detail

Expected

Wearing a NINJA400 (2020, 2BL-EX400G), POSH Used in conjunction with Initial AdjusterType2
When I put the PD Fork Valve on the NINJA2 Helmet 50SL, the thrust is reduced and the valve is not as strong as it should be I put them on my NINJA 400 because the suspension was so supple and felt so good As I expected, the ride is now more comfortable with less upward thrust and less expense I'm happy with it
The in-law of the cylinder unit of the Ninja 400 (outer diameter approx. 33.5) has an inner diameter of 27.6mm since the in-law of the cylinder unit (approx. 33.5) of the NINJA400 has an inner diameter of 27.6mm, the quantity:Set internal diameter of 26mm (outer diameter 33.5) PD Valve is selected (PDSpacer is not used.)
The holes on the cylinder unit side of NINJA400 were changed from the original holes X2 to φ8 Add two φ8x2 specs Total φ8x4 spec
The oil level is set to the standard value of 88±2 If you set the air spring to 110mm at first, the effect of the air spring is weak and the amount of strokes of the deceleration will be lowered Large size
Spacer is the InitialAdjusterType2 of POSH that I replaced with this time I used the included Spacer with a 14.5mm Cut

The PD Valve itself should not be difficult to install, but the problem is that the NINJA 400 I guess the removal of the middle cowl is a hassle View detail

Stick with it

It is used in Z400GP
It is used in conjunction with the external product Fork Spring, which is in the genus With Spring The free length can be secured without processing in combination
The feeling of using it is limited to use in the city riding, but before installing it, Fork will be in hard braking I'm afraid of moving too much, so I unconsciously apply the rear brake more than the front brake I used to drive quite dangerously, but this product allows me to ride naturally I can now do it I had a friend who has the same type of car test drive it and it was highly rated
I'm going to enjoy setting up with my favorite Winding and so on in the future, but I just installed it But for now, I'm happy with it
You said that you are instructed to machine the Orifice when you install it, but we need to make sure the adjustment screw is safe We loosen it within the limits of the range of the "1" and use Orifice without processing For your reference View detail

Satisfied

The oil viscosity is the same, but the oil surface is the same as the OEM standard
In the instruction manual of the English version, there are instructions to drill a hole in the piston rod Translations (please enter here), translations (not in the instruction manual, but for now) Enter, as described in the instruction manual, no drilling on Piston Rod, PD Valve Pre the road was also built to the standard

However, if you assemble it as it is, the collar will be preloaded for the thickness of PD Valve I cut off the Valve minutes


The impression is that the feeling of thrusting up in Gap of the road surface in particular during driving is eased to Large width and the waist comes out I did
Also, the sinking by breaking also started to take place slowly and was generally on target
I haven't sent out the detailed settings yet, but I'm generally happy with it
View detail

How about pounding?

The current PD Valve does not require processing of DamperROD and the installation itself is fine, but the initial operation within legal speed hanghang.
So, I am witnessing by adding holes in the initial Damper.
If it does not work then it is good to lower the oil level.
It is a good feeling in high speed parts. View detail

Material : Plastic Valve

Select Lay Stick's product for high

But Valve's BODY is Material : It seems that Plastic is a little Large for my F Fork Spring diameter, and it was necessary to adjust and adjust the diameter with just a little file.

It is a product of some settings, but I have to take it out every time.
But motivation only problem.

Considering Material I think that it may be a little cheaper, but I am satisfied with the performance.
Even if the distance is overlapped, if there is no alarm in the resin, 5 points. View detail

postage

The postage on this item is way over the top being way too expensive at over 70$.. I have bought a lot of parts from your store and I feel that you are getting out of hand with your postage.. please revise the postage and I may buy more parts.. steve wardle vjmc of australia View detail

It is not PAD Valve - -

Although it is not an impression, but the experience seems to be the same before at all Stee's Cartridge Imrulator, the experience of using this product The liver of this product gives the function of the plate Valve to the DamperROD formula Fork without plate Valve I think that. Even if the attenuation of the Fam of the DamperROD formula is good at the low speed side, it is raised etc.. On the high-speed side of Oil is gathered together at once, coming with a guts with symptoms like Oil lock for a moment. So I think that the purpose is to escape the Oil on the board Valve because movement is hindered. So, it seems that there is no point unless you do not have the function of compression side originally in DamperROD. Personally it is a product I would like to install in order to make the suspension move more than escape pressure in reverse rather than strengthen compression side decay. Is it possible to order the size of 118-4006 by saying? I am sorry that it is not an impression. View detail

YSS PAD Valve for adjustment of compression side damping

Mounting on KLEANHELO
The installation was perfect with 31 Millimeter Size

Mounting without Orifice processing
Just drop it with Ston under Fork Spring
Pre-road is added about 15 mm, but as it is
Without adjusting the oil level, the oil level remained elevated
(Fork oil is oil level + 10 mm in NORMAL with g15)
It was a moderate decay without becoming a worried capability

Spring's Pre-road for PAD Valve's high-speed side damping adjustment was set to 0 Pre-road
We used Scale to adjust Spring's Length to some extent, but Quantity : Pair (for Left and Right) I thought that it was necessary to synchronize the condition of rotation of Body and Valve with the touch.
(Spring's Length is 14 millimeters between Bolt Head and Low Speed ??Washer)

Result of mounting and trial riding
The attenuation on the low speed side is working as intended
As we are trying not to work very well on the high-speed side, this is also aimed

Because I am running a galley place with ANHELO I absolutely wanted the movement of this foot

Legs follow the stone and legs move steadily in Corner

However, if it is only a town ride it may be a little stiff

Orifice processing is required for YSS technical instructions making PAD Valve
Is it really necessary?
I think that there are many ways of thinking, but leave the part functioning at OEM as it is
I thought that it is enough to just fine-adjust the attenuation with the retrofit parts

Moreover, since disassembly of Fork is unnecessary, anyone can install easily, so you can try it with ease
You can also remove it if the fee Ring does not match

New buyers are also advised to try installing before processing Orifice. View detail

PAD Valve

Although I purchased it, in fact it is not attached yet Impression is impossible, but since I replaced Rear suspension with Other Company Product a while ago, I feel a little fear that fun to adjust front and rear and Large durable? - - View detail

We introduced for ride comfort

Hyper pro's SPG was put in, but since Pad Valve has not been overwhelming, I added PAD Valve. In the processing of Seat pipe, hole of NORMAL is further processed to φ10, shifted by 90-degrees, and two φ8s are added on 10 mm Meter (The lower side has Oil lock peace and it could not be processed) Chamfer on Leutor and finish, Oil seal, Bush as new and reassemble.
PAD Valve is φ33. 5 tightened 2 turns, oil level 170 millimeter, Spring's Pre-road 1. 5 mm Meter (Equipped with a 70 kg ride Sag of 1 G ride does not protrude and it is the same as NORMAL) As Oil is a bit hard on ASH # 40 Oil seems to be a bit more soft, the oil level will be lower when increasing the tightening, the oil level looks better if the tightening is decreased.
Spring collar has 15 mm MeterCut with addition of PAD Valve (Pre-roadADJ, SPGetc. Cut according to change).
The rough road surface, stability feeling of sinking during Brake, etc. got better, I'm still lacking boil down, but I will set it to mind while enjoying the change. View detail

I tried using it.

To OEM's Z 36 Fork, trial without Orifice processing.
Including that Pre-road is applied to Fork itself, I intentionally put it in, but a sense of damping occurred properly.
I think that adjustment of the damping force is sufficiently possible if we successfully adjust the Screw on the Valve side.

I put it in a single rate spring etc and already already I think that the approximate Spring rate already is an item that you can definitely recommend to those who find a good place.
Personally, I think that it is probably unnecessary to process Orifice to Fam's DamperROD. View detail

Can you make a drastic change in old car Fork?

It is installed in KYB Φ 36 OEMFork of Z1000 mk 2 series.
In theory we tried to introduce with the idea that if the perfect setting can be made with this, it should become structurally superior with respect to the part of the attenuation pressure rather than VITO KYB and PMCKYB.

The disadvantage of the Large is that since SettingData does not exist much on the Web and there is no information that can be referred to, each person specifies the Spec. That it is in a state where you have to do your best on your own according to.

Personally, although Orifice processing of OEMDamperROD is recommended, it does not need it. (Since it thinks that it is hardly attenuated in any case)
I took off the top cap, pulled out of Spring, it was easy to wear it with Image like dropping with Poton from there, and it is easier to stick with Set.
I took a second step to purchase Replace's Fork, and I can not afford to pay for Small, but I think that it is Items of Recommendation for those who are interested in leisure and experimental efforts.

It is for those who can enjoy PRO settlement of set out and remodeling itself rather than to improve running. View detail

the back whose processing of the Compression hole of a Piston rod was troublesome is unclear, although adjustment of a Pre-road takes with two rotations and is in an opinion -- it is intelligible, if it comes out, and it is peevish and I have you write by

the back whose processing of the Compression hole of a Piston rod was troublesome is unclear, although adjustment of a Pre-road takes with two rotations and is in an opinion -- it is intelligible, if it comes out, and it is peevish and I have you write by die length.The
effect did not change, so that it considered.It is completely better than there is nothing. View detail